Revolution Cooking InstaGlo R270 Toaster Review: A Waste of Your Dough

My Cuisinart toaster it has performed very well for the past 10 years. Only recently have I wondered if it is showing signs of age, maybe not toasting as efficiently as it used to. At least for now, it’s nothing that can’t be fixed by toasting one more time on a short cycle.

Perhaps the possible impending decline of my Cuisinart made me stick around when I recently came across a “smart toaster” with some cool-sounding bells and whistles: promises of faster toasting, a new heating element design and what the manufacturer calls “intelligent toasting algorithms”. .”

I was particularly interested in that faster toast. Toast fans tend to like it when the slices are done to their preferred level of doneness on the outside, but still moist and chewy on the inside, not a nasty slice that breaks in half when they take a bite. Speed ​​could certainly help achieve that perfect balance.

Instead of the dials, levers, and buttons typically found on most toasters, Revolution Cooking’s two-slot toasters are controlled by a touch screen, and get ready, they’re priced at $350-$400, which is quite a lot crazy considering the competition. Top-rated two-slot toasters cost between $30 and $100.

The touch screen on the front of the toaster prompts you to select the type of bread, whether it’s fresh or frozen, and how dark you want it. There’s also a switch for gluten-free breads.

Photography: Revolution Cooking

Touch screen toasting is an interesting change. In the Revolution, this screen is cleverly placed on one of the two narrower faces of the toaster. This arrangement allows you to put the narrow side of the toaster forward, thus preventing it from taking up too much counter width. You can choose from settings like bread, bagel, instant waffles, toaster pastry (a la Pop-Tarts), or English muffins, and then your desired level of “toasty.” The two-slot R270 I looked at has all of these options, including its more basic R180, plus individual bread-specific settings like sourdough, multigrain cinnamon swirl, and a gluten-free option.

It sounded fun. Who doesn’t want the best for their toast? Unfortunately, I had a good time with the basics…how to get the $400 toaster to toast well. Just getting solid, consistent results with store-bought loaves of white bread and sourdough (the meat and potatoes of most toast, if you will) was a bit beyond the Revolution’s capabilities.

Toast test

I tried the bagels.

Photography: Joe Ray

When you choose what you’re toasting and your desired level of doneness, the Revolution’s display shows what your toast should look like when it’s done. I had some Franz sourdough at home and whether it was in the bread or sourdough environment, it never came out like the picture on the screen. It was usually underdone (especially if using frozen bread and the frozen setting) and uneven. Worse, the toaster often left the bottom half inch of a slice untoasted, and often had trouble making one of the bottom corners. If I re-toasted on its shorter cycle to fix any of these issues, my toast usually came out burnt.

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